Dealing with Color Corrections: When Things Go Wrong and How to Fix Them
As a professional stylist, no matter how skilled you are, color corrections are an inevitable part of the job. Clients often come in with DIY dye jobs gone wrong, old color that needs refreshing, or previous work that didn’t quite achieve their desired results. Handling color corrections effectively is a mark of a skilled stylist and a key factor in maintaining client trust and satisfaction.
Here’s a guide to help you approach color corrections with confidence, identify common issues, and offer solutions to restore your client’s hair to its full glory.
1. Start with a Thorough Consultation
Before diving into any corrective work, the consultation is critical. Take the time to ask the client about their hair history, including any at-home treatments or previous salon visits. Perform a detailed hair analysis to assess the hair’s porosity, elasticity, and condition. This initial step helps avoid unnecessary surprises and sets clear expectations for what can realistically be achieved.
Tip: Always take a strand test if the hair’s history is unclear or if it appears compromised. This gives you an idea of how the hair will respond to the corrective process.
2. Identify the Problem
Understanding the root cause of the issue helps determine the best course of action. Here are a few common color correction scenarios and how to approach them:
- Unwanted Tones (Brassiness or Ashiness)
If the client’s color has turned too brassy or too ashy, a simple toning treatment may be all that’s needed. Choose a toner that neutralizes the unwanted undertone without altering the rest of the hair color. - Patchy or Uneven Color
This occurs when color hasn’t been applied evenly or has processed differently on certain sections. In these cases, you may need to go in with a targeted approach, applying a color-matched formula to the areas that need evening out. - Overly Dark or Intense Color
For clients who ended up with a shade that’s too dark, a gentle lightening or color-removing treatment might be necessary. Products like color removers (not bleach) can help lift the excess pigment without causing additional damage.
3. Be Mindful of Hair Integrity
One of the biggest challenges in color correction is achieving the desired outcome without further damaging the hair. Prioritize treatments that protect the hair’s health. For severe color corrections involving bleach, always use a bond-protecting additive to minimize damage.
Tip: Educate your client about the impact of each correction step on their hair health and discuss a recovery plan that includes conditioning treatments and at-home care.
4. Layer Your Solutions
Color corrections often require more than one session, especially if the client is transitioning from a very dark shade to a much lighter one or if they have pre-existing damage. Be transparent about this, and don’t promise drastic results in a single appointment. Instead, create a step-by-step plan that takes the client through each phase gradually, allowing their hair to recover in between sessions.
For instance, if the goal is to lift dark, stubborn color, start with a color remover to break down the pigments before lightening. If brassiness is a concern, tone the hair immediately after lifting to prevent unwanted undertones from settling in.
5. Know When to Blend and When to Cover
Sometimes, the best corrective action isn’t to try to change the existing color completely but to blend it with complementary shades. For example, if the client’s highlights have turned too light, a lowlight application can restore depth and dimension without the need for an aggressive correction.
Conversely, if the client is looking for a complete transformation, you may need to cover the existing color entirely. In this case, choose a full coverage formula that neutralizes the underlying tones rather than simply applying a darker shade on top.
6. Aftercare and Follow-Up
Once you’ve corrected the color, it’s essential to set your client up for success with a clear aftercare plan. Recommend sulfate-free shampoos, moisturizing conditioners, and bond-repairing treatments to keep their hair healthy and vibrant. Schedule a follow-up appointment to touch up and assess how the hair has adjusted to the changes.
Tip: Encourage your clients to come back for regular glossing treatments to maintain the color’s shine and vibrancy.
Color corrections are an art that requires a deep understanding of hair chemistry, an eye for color theory, and a compassionate approach to client communication. By mastering these techniques and maintaining transparency throughout the process, you build trust and establish yourself as a go-to stylist for clients facing challenging hair color issues. In the end, successful color correction is all about restoring confidence and delivering results that make clients feel their best.
